🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.